The Basic Anatomy of an
JAMMA Arcade Game
Written
by Tim Hensel
JammaBoards.com
One of the most common questions I
hear is 'What
do I need to do so I can play a JAMMA arcade board?'. Hopefully this is page
will
provide a good answer to that question, and then some. There
are
two main options to playing one of those classic arcade circuit boards
in your home. The first choice, and best choice for the original arcade
feel, is to have a regular stand up arcade cabinet filled with
normal
arcade parts. The second option, which is great if your short
on
space, is to purchase a 'Supergun' that simply connects to your regular
TV set. I'll go over both of those options in detail below.
Inside
a JAMMA Arcade Cabinet
First, lets break down what an
arcade game is
made of. Looking at the picture diagram below, all the main
components of an arcade cabinet are shown.
ARCADE (SYSTEM) CIRCUIT BOARD (PCB)
The arcade circuit board can be considered the brains of
the entire system. The standard JAMMA arcade circuit board
receives its power/ground (+5VDC, +12VDC, and a few select boards that need -5VDC)
directly from the switching power supply output.
Wikipedia describes an arcade (system) board as:
An arcade system board is a
standardized printed circuit board or group of printed circuit boards
that are used as the basis for multiple arcade games with very similar
hardware requirements.
Early arcade system boards incorporated the game directly into the
system board, which saved on manufacturing costs (due to the common
components) but required arcade game owners to buy an entire system
board for each new game.
Later arcade system boards, including SNK's Neo-Geo, Capcom's CPS-2,
and Sega's NAOMI, separated the system board from the game itself, akin
to a home video game console and cartridge. This method benefited both
manufacturers and arcade game owners; the owners only had to buy the
system board once, and could switch out the games at a fraction of the
price and with less effort, and the manufacturers could produce fewer
of the costly system boards and more of the less-costly games. The ease
and value of switching out games also led to brand loyalty, as owners
of system board X would be much more likely to buy the latest X game
for $1000 than to fork over $5000 for system board Y to run the latest
Y game, or incorporated system board and game Z.
MONITOR
The monitor is the main focal point of any arcade game. There are
several important details that will need to be considered in a monitor
for an arcade cabinet. First, decide on the size monitor you'll
want installed in the cabinet ...usually either a 13", 19", or 25"
monitor are used for arcade games. Another important selection in
the monitor will be the resolution. Most arcade games simply
require a low/standard resolution monitor, which has a scan rate of
15.75kHz. Some (only a small few) of late 90's and on arcade games
require a medium resolution monitor, which has a scan rate of 25.00kHz.
Generally a standard resolution monitor is perfectly fine for
general arcade cabinet use, as most games use (and can only use) a
standard resolution monitor. A little more expensive option is to
purchase a monitor which has a switch to go back and forth between
standard and medium resolutions depending upon what game is currently
installed. The monitor is powered from the cabinets AC voltage
and in most cases will need to have an Isolation Filter installed.
Wikipedia defines the term 'Scan Rate' as:
Horizontal scan
rate, or horizontal frequency, usually expressed in kilohertz, is the
frequency at which a CRT moves the electron beam from the left side of
the display to the right and back, and therefore describes the number
of horizontal lines displayed. CRT timings actually include some
horizontal scans before the visible display, after it, and during the
travel from bottom to top (known as vertical back porch, vertical front
porch, and vertical sync width, respectively, and collectively known as
vertical blank time), so the horizontal scan rate does not directly
correlate to visible display lines, unless the unseen lines are also
known, but it can still be used to approximate the display lines, as
the total blank time is usually a small but significant portion of the
total lines.
It is usually the most limiting factor of a CRT display. This limit is
due to how quickly the CRTs yoke can move the electron beam from one
left side of the display to the right, or vice versa.
An important side note about vertical / horizontal mounting monitors.
The monitor itself is the same, it just depends which way the monitor
is physically mounted inside the arcade cabinet. There are only two
positions positions for the monitor to be mounted; horizontally which
the longer length of the screen runs from side to side (Same as how a
regular television set is displayed), and vertically which the monitor
is simply rotated 90º. The mounting position of the monitor
depends upon two main factors; the amount of monitor space available
inside the cabinet, and the orientation required for the game itself.
For example, the very popular 39 in 1 classic arcade PCB requires a
vertical mounted monitor. This simply means that the longer length of
the monitor screen is going from top to bottom. If the 39 in 1
classic arcade game PCB is installed in a JAMMA arcade cabinet with a
horizontal mounted monitor, the picture on the screen will appear at a
90º angle.
Looking for an arcade monitor?
http://www.happcontrols.com/monitors/monitors.htm
CONTROL PANEL
The Control Panel, usually made of wood or metal, contains the
joysticks and pushbuttons ...basically everything the controls the game.
Most control panels are attached by hinges, which allows the operator
to simply unlatch and flip over the control panel for service.
Standard Arcade Pushbuttons
http://www.happcontrols.com/pushbuttons/5896xxl.htm
Specialty Player 1-4 Pushbuttons
http://www.happcontrols.com/pushbuttons/589111l1ply.htm
Standard Competition 8-Way Style Joysticks
http://www.happcontrols.com/joysticks/competition_joy.htm
CONTROL PANEL OVERLAY
This is just a very durable large sticker which has graphics that match
the installed game on the outer side and adhesive on the other.
Sample control panel overlay from Happs:
http://www.happcontrols.com/accessories/49313200.htm
And some nice reproduction and MAME type overlays:
http://www.mamemarquees.com/
COIN DOOR
Something not actually needed for an arcade game in the home, but the
arcade cabinet just does not look right without one installed!
The coin door is needed when collecting money for game plays.
Behind the coin slots are devices referred to as 'Coin Mechs'.
Usually when purchasing a new coin door, the coin mechs will be
already installed.
Click below to view or purchase a coin door for your cabinet:
http://www.happcontrols.com/coindoors/doors.htm
SPEAKER
Most regular JAMMA arcade games are just fine with a single 8-ohm
speaker installed. Some JAMMA+ type games can support Stereo speakers
and require an extra cable that connect directly from the arcade board
to the left and right 8-ohm speakers. Usually, the speaker(s)
would be mounted above the monitor facing downward towards the player.
Click below to view typical arcade speakers:
http://www.happcontrols.com/accessories/509003205.htm
FLUORESCENT LAMP ASSEMBLY
Used for illuminating the
arcade game marquee sign, the Fluorescent Lamp Assembly is just a
common ballast type fluorescent lamp fixture found at any hardware type
store. There are 3 main parts to the Fluorescent Lamp Assembly;
the main fixture itself, a fluorescent long tube bulb, and a
fluorescent lamp starter. Powered by standard 115VAC which will
turn on and off when the main Power ON/OFF switch is turned to the ON
position. http://www.happcontrols.com/lighting/49100100.htm
MARQUEE
Sometimes referred to as the cabinet header or game header, the Marquee
is usually positioned at the top of the arcade cabinet. Simply just a
sign displaying the title of the game, as well as surrounded by fancy
graphics. Older types of Marquees made of glass, with the backside
covered in illuminating paint. Later Marquees where made of a clear
plastic/Plexiglas type material with the same paint that will brighten
up with a fluorescent bulb lit up behind it. The newest style of
marquees are made of flexible thin plastic.
A few sites offering some great CLASSIC / MAME / MULTIGAME / YOUR DESIGN marquees:
http://www.mamemarquees.com/
http://www.emdkay.net/
BEZEL
The Monitor Bezel surrounds the monitor, usually with nice graphic
pictures of the game or may list some special moves of the game
characters. The main purpose of the Bezel is to cover the empty space
gap between the cabinet and the monitor. Earlier versions of the
monitor bezel were similar to type marquee styles, painted glass and
Plexiglas materials. Later bezels are simply made of cardboard type
material.
This site has some nice reproduction bezels:
http://www.mamemarquees.com/
INSTRUCTION CARD
Usually placed directly below the monitor, the Instruction Card will
give all basic operating instructions of the game. This may include
special character moves, button combinations, etc and a brief
description of what those moves / combinations will do.
FAN (EXHAUST)
Powered on when the cabinet is powered on, the fan will help move the
warm air (generated mostly by the power supply and monitor) out of the
cabinet. The fan will connect into the 115VAC line.
http://www.happcontrols.com/electrical_supplies/80000610.htm
-Click Diagram above for a larger view-
POWER SUPPLY SECTION
POWER
SUPPLY (SWITCHED)
Provides the correct voltages required for an arcade circuit
board to operate. This will be just a standard switching
15A power supply, which provides the following; +5VDC,
+12VDC, -5VDC, and Ground. Some arcade circuit
boards do not require the -5VDC, however ALL circuit boards require
+5VDC, +12VDC, and Ground. The power supply will only provide
power for the arcade board and 'usually' nothing else. The monitor,
along with any lights or fans will run off the 115VAC.
http://www.happcontrols.com/powersupplies/80006400.htm
POWER ON/OFF SWITCH
Basically just a simple heavy-duty ON/OFF toggle switch, which
disconnects the main A/C from providing power to anything inside the
cabinet. In order make sure there is no active voltage inside the
cabinet, ALWAYS disconnect power from the wall outlet.
Again ...ALWAYS disconnect the power of the wall outlet source
before going inside the arcade cabinet and touching wires.
http://www.happcontrols.com/powersupplies/49000500.htm
ISOLATION TRANSFORMER
Used to provide clean power to the monitor. This will be wired to
just have 115VAC IN and 115VAC OUT. Some newer arcade monitors do not
require an isolation transformer, but most common ones out there do!
http://www.happcontrols.com/monitors/80210000.htm
POWER LINE FILTER (AC POWER)
Used to eliminate power spikes coming through the AC power
line. A good Power line Filter of handling at least 10AMP is a
good choice to use.
http://www.happcontrols.com/electrical_supplies/49100300.htm
IN-LINE FUSE (AC POWER)
Used to prevent major damage to your power supply section, monitor,
etc. ALWAYS HAVE A FUSE INSTALLED! In the event of a section in the
power supply failing for example, the fuse will blo (open up) to cut
off the electrical source.
AC POWER CORD
The only way to get the AC voltage from your wall outlet into your Arcade Cabinet.
Excellent Arcade Power Cord:
http://www.happcontrols.com/electrical_supplies/80120014.htm
Getting a JAMMA Cabinet
Where
to find an inexpensive ready to go arcade JAMMA cabinet
The best way to get all the arcade
parts you'll need in one shot is just to simply purchase an existing
working arcade game. This way, you'll have the required monitor, power
supply, wiring, buttons/joysticks, plus an arcade cabinet to house all
those parts! Try an find a non-popular JAMMA arcade game, this
way the price would be much lower than purchasing a hot seller.
Amusement Auctions
Amusement Auctions are probably the best way to go if your looking for
an existing used arcade cabinet. You will usually find plenty of
working arcade games at great prices. Check out the Auction sites
below and view their upcoming events calendar to see if there is one in
your area.
eBay
Do a search in the 'Home > Buy > Collectibles > Arcade,
Jukeboxes & Pinball > Arcade > Machines' category. Be
sure to sort by 'Distance: Nearest First' which will show all those
auctions closest to you. This way, you can save a ton of money by
picking up the arcade game yourself rather than paying to have it
shipped.
Build your own cabinet!
Handy with some tools and wood? Check out some of the following links
for great build your own cabinet resources. Most sites have
downloadable drawings and plans, including all dimensions, on build
your own cabinet.
Looking for an easy to assembly, brand new cabinet? This site below has 'Build-your-own' kits which are exceptional quality and workmanship, plus the price for these cabinet kits are great! Along with full Up-right cabinets, they also sells kits in mini, cocktail, and bar tops!
Also, if you are planning to purchase any of the great cabinet kits from Mameroom.com, then please click through the link below. This simply tells them what site sent you, which helps me. Thanks!
SUPERGUNS
Connecting right into your TV!
What is a supergun? Here is a great definition/description from Wikipedia:
A SuperGun (or super gun) is a
device used to play arcade games in lieu of requiring a full arcade
cabinet. Arcade games typically are designed to be used in a universal
cabinet design. The supergun provides this universal interface in a
greatly reduced size, allowing arcade games to be tested or enjoyed
without needing the entire cabinet. Superguns frequently resemble video
game consoles which plug into a television or monitor, and have
detached joysticks and play arcade boards as if they were large
cartridges. Some superguns are a large box with two arcade controllers
side by side, resembling the top of a typical arcade cabinet.
A SuperGun contains the inner workings of a standard arcade video game
cabinet inside a small plastic or metal box. A SuperGun plugs in a
JAMMA board and usually provides at least RGB output (the native output
of arcade games) sometimes through an SCART connector. Since the SCART
connector is not common on televisions in some regions such as the
United States of America, frequently a supergun will also convert the
RGB signal into NTSC composite video or S-video signals, with varying
degrees of quality.
While it is usually assumed that a supergun will automatically play
JAMMA-compatible arcade boards, many systems support additional
features not provided by JAMMA. The most common additional feature is
wiring for extra buttons via the JAMMA+ interface, or MVS. JAMMA only
provides for three buttons per controller, but games requiring wiring
for extra buttons have become common enough that many superguns support
this out of the box as well.
Many other arcade systems besides JAMMA can be played via adapter that
plugs into a JAMMA interface (and the supergun by extension) to take
advantage of the universally available JAMMA arcade cabinets. For
example, to play an SNK Neo-Geo game such as Samurai Shodown, one would
need to first plug an MVS board into the supergun (which must support
four buttons, standard on MVS games) and then plug the MVS game into
the MVS adapter. Similarly, Capcom has the CPS-2 for its games.
Alternatively, some modders may create one consolized arcade board, by
adding the conversion components directly to the arcade board, rather
than making a universal supergun for multiple boards. This process is
most popular for boards that have interchangeable games, such as Neo
Geo MVS and Atomiswave.
Here are some of the top places to visit for arcade superguns sales and more information:
